Signature sparklers
Designers often have their signature pieces: from a Burberry trench coat to Gucci’s bamboo handbag. Jewellery houses are no different. And a flash of such a design will receive nods of admiration and appreciation from those in the know. While Bond Street is home to legendary diamond specialists – among them Harry Winston, Boodles, De Beers and Moussaieff – when it comes to iconic pieces, look no further than the Alhambra collection from Van Cleef & Arpels. Originally introduced in the late 1960s, the delicate four-leaf clover motif has exploded in popularity in recent years, and comes in a variety of designs, stones and colours. At Bulgari, there’s a choice of legendary collections, including the brutalist B.zero1, inspired by Rome’s Colosseum, and the Serpenti, a series of coiled, snake-like treasures. New York luxury house Tiffany & Co is an icon in every facet; from its signature blue and white packaging to its landmark engagement ring setting. Not sure where to start? Try the Tiffany T bangle, inspired by an archival piece from 1975 and a masterpiece in elegant simplicity.
Made in Italy
The Italians are responsible for some of the world’s finest exports: fashion, wine, art, architecture and, of course, food. And Italy is also home to some pretty spectacular jewellery houses that have largely flown under the average British shopper’s radar. Pomellato is a playful Milanese brand from the 1960s that embodies the era’s covetable style and spirit of independence. Our pick is the brand’s joyful Pom Pom Dot collection, inspired by the humble button. Then there’s the Venetian brand Damiani – proudly family run since it was founded in 1924. With a focus on designing and making everything from scratch in Venice, Damiani epitomises authentic Italian flair and craftsmanship at its finest.
Pearls of wisdom
Pearls tread a thin line between preppy and punk. On the one hand you have the East Coast Wasps clutching at their pearl necklaces, but then the likes of the late, great Vivienne Westwood gave pearls a subversive twist with just a few styling tweaks. As such, pearls are being embraced by the younger generation, who often mix high and low fashion with aplomb, and Japanese jewellery houses Tasaki and Mikimoto incorporate high-quality cultured pearls in unique, unexpected designs. While neither brand is new (founded in 1954 and 1893 respectively), their approach to jewellery design is thoroughly modern. In Tasaki’s Danger collection, jagged fangs and claws are represented in delicate gold, diamonds and pearls, creating a striking interplay between menace and elegance. And Mikimoto often highlights the singular beauty of a white south sea cultured pearl in a contemporary, minimalist band or chain.